Not all oils are created equally. Unfortunately, in today's world we have what I consider "Crony Corporatism" where the chemical companies are joined in with the farming companies and both are tied into the pharmaceutical companies who are tied in with our FDA which means that the board members of one company is also on the board of another. You see the total conflict of interest here?
Without being too political about it all, because I can't stand politicians or politics in general, the most security we have, that our plants are being grown without chemical interference, is that label placed on it, that it is certified organic. It does in fact have to go through rigorous testing, to become certified as such.
This is a topic, I could go on and on about, but my point being, we need to know that anything we are putting into our body, or onto our skin (which gets into our body) is not loaded with chemicals. This is a huge concern for me with essential oils and carrier oils that I use in my products.
I feel it is so important, if I am going to go through all the hard work it takes to make a product, that I am using the very best ingredients I can source. They must not be mass-produced and chemically grown. My products contain organic or wild crafted (sometimes by myself) ingredients. I want the best for my family and for my customers.
Let me go over the different oils I use and why:
Olive Oil. Did you know there are several types of olive oils you can buy for skincare?
Extra Virgin Olive Oil: To qualify as “extra virgin,” olive oil must meet four criteria's:
It must be produced only by mechanical extraction (no hot water or chemicals applied to extract the oil from the olives).
It must come from the first pressing of the olives.
It must have a free oleic acidity level of less than one percent.
It must have perfect taste.
Virgin Olive Oil: Virgin olive oil also comes from the first pressing of the olives and also must be extracted without chemicals. Virgin olive oil can have a free acidity level of up to 3.3%, though.
Pure Olive Oil: Sometimes also called “Grade A” olive oil, this grade of oil is a blend of virgin olive oil and refined oils. The refining process takes away some of the vitamins, nutrients, and flavor of the oil, but the blending provides a more stable, consistent, oil. Grade A oil is the most commonly used for making soap.
Pomace Olive Oil: Pomace olive oil comes from the dregs of the olive paste as the last drops of oil (between 5-8% of the total amount of oil in the olives) are extracted from the skins, pits and ground flesh of the olives. It generally has a much greener color and is not as clear as virgin olive oil. It doesn’t have the flavor that virgin olive oils have, so it is mostly (to our benefit) relegated to industrial and soap making uses. But that’s fine because it still has largely the same fatty acid makeup of virgin olive oil, so other than the greenish color, it makes very similar soap.
When making soap, many state that pomace olive oil is perfectly fine. It is clearly cheaper, than extra virgin olive oil and it makes the soap, saponify just fine. The reason I will not use it, and choose to use organic extra virgin olive oil instead? - The International Olive Council (IOC), the intergovernmental organization responsible for outlining quality standards and monitoring olive oil authenticity, clearly defines olive oil as, “oil obtained solely from the fruit of the olive tree, to the exclusion of oils obtained using solvents or re-esterification processes.” The amount of oil contained in the leftover pomace, which consists of the solid remains of the olive including skins, pulp, seeds, and stems, is so minimal that it cannot be extracted by pressing, but only through the combined use of chemical solvents (like Hexane) and extremely high heat.
This very process, the same high heat technique used in producing canola, sunflower, and other vegetable oils, is why unregulated olive pomace oil sometimes contain harmful components known as polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) like benzopyrene, which research has shown to be highly carcinogenic and mutagenic. Benzopyrenes result from the incomplete combustion of the fats present in the olives. When fats are exposed to levels of high heat, like in the pomace oil extraction processes where there is no complete combustion and no smoke is produced, benzopyrenes are likely to be produced as a result.
The process to extract olive pomace oil is as follows: a chemical solvent is first administered to the olive pomace which has the ability to dissolve the fats but not the rest of the solid pomace. This application extracts the oil and then afterward, in a refining process, the product is heated so the solvent evaporates completely and cleanly without leaving any sort of harmful residue — so long that this heating method does not exceed 90 degrees Celsius (194 degrees Farenheit). Using this system, the final product is not likely to contain polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) like benzopyrene.
Benzopyrenes, being themselves highly reactive fats, can dissolve easily into cellular membranes and thereby enter a cell’s interior. This resulting action has been shown to cause either intracellular oxidation – the aging and death of cells – or an intoxication which results in the mutagenesis of the genetic material in the cell’ s nucleus. In some instances, this of course spreads as an uncontrolled multiplication of damaged cells which can result in a cancerous tumor.
I do not use what is cheapest to sell as "natural." I used what is best. For my Olive Oil, I use Extra Virgin Organic Olive Oil and I source it from a place that participates in the Fair Trade standards.
Coconut Oil: is truly the best for a good cleansing, bubbly, hard bar of soap. This sounds perfect, I know. So why use anything else? Well Coconut Oil cleanse so good, it will dry out the skin if used on a daily basis, no doubt. Most processes used for Coconut Oil rates 4 on the comedogenic scale for carrier oils. This means, it is not a good oil for acne. Anything over a 2 is not a good carrier oil for this issue.
Of course for a body bar of soap, coconut oil at less than 30% is fine in a bar of soap. This gives all the benefits of the cleansing and lather, without overdoing it. Coconut oil contains skin-nourishing fatty acids and polyphenols, which make it a great carrier oil for massage oils and skin care preparations.
RBD Coconut Oil: RBD is the cheapest coconut oil to obtain. RBD stands for refined, bleached, and deodorized. RBD coconut oil is first removed from coconut meat (copra) using chemical solvents. After the oil is removed it is then subjected to a process of refining, bleaching, and deodorizing. This processing method removes most of the solvent from the oil, and produces an oil which is white, stable and odorless. However it also produces an oil that has also lost some of its original characteristics, such as vitamin E, antioxidants, and its sweet, subtle fragrance. RBD coconut oil also contains trace amounts of the solvent that was used to remove the oil. RBD coconut oil is usually sold as either coconut oil 76ºF, or coconut oil 92ºF. Coconut oil normally melts at 76ºF. Coconut oil with a melting point of 92ºF has been refined, bleached, deodorized, and hydrogenated. The hydrogenation causes it to be firm up to 92ºF.
Expeller-pressed and Cold Pressed Coconut Oil: Cold-pressed coconut oil is made by pressing the oil out of the coconut meat without heat. During the process, the temperature remains below 120 degrees Fahrenheit, which is thought to help the final product retain more nutrients.
Cold-pressed coconut oil tends to retain more of its nutritional value, particularly phenolic compounds, whereas expeller-pressed oil has a more nutty and toasted flavor, making it preferable for certain cooking applications. While both of these coconut oils are good for your health, your choice should depend on why and how you are using the oil for your health.
Cold-pressed coconut oil is exceptional for skin health, as it is a great moisturizer and also delivers antibacterial, antiviral and anti-fungal protection to the skin, making it great for the prevention and treatment of acne, psoriasis, eczema, sunburn, and inflammation of every kind. It also helps with exfoliation by eliminating deep-seated toxins and improves elasticity by targeting oxidative stress and free radical activity. By maintaining all of its natural acids, minerals and nutrients, cold-pressed coconut oil is the best choice for hair treatments, helping to strengthen strands, moisturize the scalp, prevent infections in the follicle beds, eliminate dandruff, and improve the appearance and luster of your locks.
The expeller-pressed method is the more traditional and common method for preparing coconut oil, in which the oil is pressed or squeezed from the meat of the coconut in order to extract it. This process separates the fiber, water, and protein from the oil, leaving behind a pure product that can be used for a wide variety medicinal and culinary applications.
While no additional heat is added during the process or to the oil itself, there is a great deal of pressure and friction involved in this method. As a result, the oil is subject to higher temperatures, sometimes in excess of 200 degrees Fahrenheit. When you heat oils to a certain level, some of the nutrients are lost, whether through denaturing or simple burn off. While the smoke point of coconut oil is 350 degrees Fahrenheit, this is a measurement of when the oil begins to burn (and thus quickly lose nutrients).
Even at temperatures below the smoke point, some of the beneficial fats and polyphenolic components can be lost or wasted, so keeping the processing temperature low is highly desired. That being said, expeller-pressed coconut oil tends to have a more toasted or nutty aroma and flavor, due to the application of this heat. This flavor makes the expeller-pressed variety sought after in many baking and culinary uses to improve the taste of the final product.
Some coconut oil is labeled virgin and some is labeled extra virgin. They are one and the same, unlike olive oil.
Fractionated Coconut Oil: is coconut oil that has had some of its naturally occurring fatty acids removed. The resultant oil is a light oil that is non-greasy and is absorbed readily into the skin. It is sometimes sold under its technical name which is caprylic/capric triglyceride. Fractionated coconut oil is usually used as a massage oil, or as a light oil in lotions, creams, and other cosmetic products.
The fractionation of coconut oil is carried out by heating the oil above its melting point. Then, it's left to cool, and the solid fraction of the oil is separated from the liquid. The whole process of fractionation can take several hours.
The big advantage to fractionated coconut oil over regular coconut oil is that it is very shelf-stable. It will not become rancid, unlike unrefined oils, making it easier to work with.
Monoi De Tahiti Oil: is a French-Tahitian cosmetic oil consisting of pure coconut oil and the fragrance of “tiare”, the Tahitian Gardenia. The product is a refinement of an ancient Polynesian beauty secret and has been manufactured commercially since 1942. Centuries ago the people of Polynesia discovered that pure coconut oil is an essential secret for beautiful skin and hair. Coconut oil is a natural replacement for your body’s skin and hair oils. The coconut oil used in Monoi Tiare Tahiti is so highly refined that it is quickly absorbed by your skin.
Authentic Tahitian monoi oil follows a strict manufacturing code that oversees the entire process from handpicking the tiare flowers to storage and shipping of the final product. This process has been validated and protected by an Appellation of Origin which was awarded to Monoi de Tahiti on April 1, 1992.
The tiare flowers that are used in Monoi de Tahiti are hand-picked at a very particular stage of their growth, specifically when they are still unopened. The flowers are immediately taken to the manufacturing plant and stripped of their pistils. The flower portion is placed in refined coconut oil for a minimum of 15 days. This is known as "enfleurage" (flower soaking), a French term used to designate a specific extraction step. According to specific maceration standards set by the decree of Appellation d'Origine, which each manufacturer must scrupulously follow, a minimum of 15 tiare flowers must be used in every liter of refined coconut oil.
When the coconuts fall from the trees, they are gathered to undergo the ancient process of extracting the coconut almonds. The shell is cracked open with an ax. The two coconut halves are left for several hours in the sun, until the almonds have shrunk enough to be removed and broken into small pieces. The fragments are then taken to special flat wooden barracks covered with sliding metal roofs which are popularly known on the Polynesian islands as "coprah dryers". The sliding roofs are only used at night and during the rainy season. The coprah is left to dry for more than a week until the coconut meat has lost over 90% of its moisture.
Placed into special natural fiber bags, the coconut fragments are shipped to the unique oil mill located on the island of Tahiti where they will be thrown into special machines and ground to a fine coco flour. The flour is then heated up to 125 degrees and finally pressed into raw coconut oil. After that step, the oil will undergo more refining to remove all impurities and obtain the highest possible quality.
Once the refining process is completed the coconut oil is placed into special storage tanks until it is purchased by one of only a handful of Monoi manufacturers. These manufacturers will proceed individually to the final maceration step which is to infuse the oil with Tiare flowers. Monoi de Tahiti must be stored in drums with a food-suitable liner or material. Drums must be lead-sealed when they leave Tahiti and kept away from humidity, light and heat.
The coconut oil I use in my products of course is Organic, but it is also Cold Pressed.
Avocado Oil: The fruits of the Persea americana botanical (original nomenclature: Persea gratissima) – better known as the Avocado tree – were reportedly cultivated in Mexico, Central, and South America as early as 5000 B.C. In Mexico where the Aztec culture was established, the Aztecs referred to Avocados as “ahuacatl,” meaning “testicle.” It was so called, because of its phallic shape and the belief that its shape represented its properties as well as the inner forces it would act on when consumed, thus it was used not only as food but also as a “fertility fruit,” as it was believed to be a sexual stimulant. The Aztecs, Incas, and Mayans also spread the fruit pulp on their skin for use in cosmetic applications such as to create face masks. The Mayans of Guatemala used Avocados to relieve diarrhea, prevent intestinal worms and parasites, and promote healthy hair growth.
For its countless benefits, the Avocado was considered a precious fruit. In some regions of Mexico, the iconography portrays the fruit in accordance with the narratives of Mexican mythology, which depicts the Avocado as a fruit that bestows immense vigor. In other regions of Mexico, artifacts can be found that are made with parts of Avocados dating back to 12,000 years ago.
Because of its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, avocado oil can help moisturize, relieve, and soothe many skin conditions, including:
Dry skin that has a low level of sebum
Psoriasis symptoms, like itchy skin and raised skin lesions
Facial damage due to frequent exposure to ultraviolet rays like those from the sun or tanning beds
Wound healing by boosting collagen metabolism and reducing inflammation, as detected in tests performed on rats using either natural avocado oil or avocado oil combined with other formulations
Babassu Oil: is a tropical oil made from the seeds of the babassu palm, a tree native to the rain forests of South America. It is packed with antioxidants and healthy fats, it can boost the health of your skin and hair, moisturizing them without causing you to feel greasy. It is a better oil than coconut oil for those with acne as it does not tend to clog pores, or strip the skin of it's needed natural oils.
Like coconut oil, it is extracted from the kernels of the tree’s produce. Within Brazil, the Babassu tree is known as the ‘Tree of Life’ due to the healing properties of the oil. It is commonly used in hair and skin products, as well as for cooking: a true multi-tasker.
In addition to the oil’s popularity in the cosmetics industry, the shell is used as fuel, and the fibers are regularly eaten as well. In the 1980s, as much as 80% of the income in rural northeast Brazil depended on babassu harvesting. Traditionally, women known as babassu breakers harvest the nuts.
Since 1991, the women were able to push back against landowners who wanted to deforest the palms for their own profit. The babassu breakers formed a co-operative known as the COPPALJ, bringing more stability to the trade. Women can now more easily bring the kernels to factories where they are cold-pressed to extract the oil, without facing the loss of their rights to do so.
Babassu Oil is known to fight acne - Lauric acid had been shown to be an effective treatment for acne by eliminating acne-causing bacteria. Its antimicrobial properties allow it to directly kill P. acnes, a common bacteria that lives in our skin and promotes inflammatory acne.
As a plant oil with a high composition of fatty acids, babassu oil is loved for its moisturizing benefits. It’s rich with lipids, meaning it forms a protective layer on top of skin to keep moisture and nutrients in, and the bad stuff out. As a natural ingredient that doesn’t clog pores, it’s a friendly moisturizer for all skin types.
Babassu Oil heals chapped skin and lips and anti-aging. Because of the combined benefits that babassu oil can have for moisturizing, protecting, and healing skin, it can be a powerful anti-ager when used regularly with a skin care regimen. Skin aging is associated with a loss of moisture. As we age, our skin gradually loses its ability to retain moisture that keeps our skin plump and firm. Antioxidants like vitamin E in babassu oil are also essential to protecting our skin against daily environmental damage.
Babassu Oil is a great natural hair moisturizer because it isn't heavy and does not leave hair with a greasy build up. Because of how well skin and hair absorbs it, babassu oil is especially a good idea for people with oilier scalps and scalp conditions.
Neem Oil: Considered by the people of India to be sacred, the legendary Neem tree has come to symbolize good health and protection. Neem Oil was used to protect food and grains and acted as a natural pesticide and fertilizer. Used in medicine, its remedial properties have strengthened health and boosted immunity. Its vast range of benefits, which far outweighs the usefulness of other trees, has made the Neem tree an integral aspect of Indian life and has come to be closely associated with the history of the Indian civilization.
Neem Oil is extracted from fruits and seeds of the Neem tree. While there are many ways to do this, th cold-pressing process yields the highest quality virgin oil consisting of all the active constituents. It is also the oldest method to produce neem oil.
For cold pressing, the seeds of the Neem tree are first removed of any pulp and then left to dry. After that, the husks are removed from the seeds to obtain the kernels. These kernels are then pressed to release the oil content. Depending on the quality of kernels, the extracted neem oil can have varying color and odor. For instance, when the fresh seeds are used, the produced oil is lighter in color and has a less pungent smell.
Throughout history, several elements of the diverse Neem tree were used to make herbal beauty treatments, insecticides, and first aid treatments for numerous skin ailments. Unless exposed to severe droughts or frost, this evergreen tree’s leaves are available throughout the year. Although its seeds, or “nuts,” are largely known for yielding the beneficial carrier oil, the tree’s bark, leaves, roots, flowers, and fruits are also used to make medicine that was applied topically.
Neem oil may also be used to treat the symptoms of psoriasis, eczema, and other disorders of the skin. It can be used in treating acne and hyperpigmentation, healing burns and abrasions, moisturizing the skin, relieving dandruff, stimulating hair growth, treating head lice and fungal infections.
Sweet almond oil: is full of vitamin E, vitamin A, monosaturated fatty acids, protein, potassium, and zinc. Thanks to the Vitamin E, sweet almond oil keeps your skin cells healthy, protects your skin from UV radiation damage, and helps your skin look smooth, soft, and free of fine lines.
The fatty acids help your skin retain moisture and can heal chapped and irritated skin.
Plus, the vitamin A can help reduce acne. Because the oil easily penetrates skin, it’s great for cleaning out the dirt and oil and accumulates in your pores. This process can prevent blackheads and acne from developing.
Because it’s packed with these vitamins and nutrients, sweet almond oil is a natural skincare superpower. If you’re worried about using oil on your skin—especially if you have oily skin—there’s no need to stress. Sweet almond oil is mostly non-comedogenic, which means it’s unlikely to clog your pores.
Kukui Nut Oil: The Kukui (Candlenut) tree was brought to Hawaii from Asia by the early Polynesian settlers. The Kukui tree has always had spiritual significance to Hawaiians, giving them hope for renewal. So much, that today it is even Hawaii’s state tree. Kukui was often used by Hawaiian royalty for its moisturizing properties. Kukui Nut oil has been traditionally used on the Hawaiian Islands for sunburns due to its ability to penetrate deep layers of skin, and soothe skin and reduce inflammation.
Rich in Vitamins A, C, D, & E, omega 3, 6, & 9 fatty acids, and antioxidants, Kukui Nut Oil has been shown to help people with eczema, psoriasis, dry skin, damaged skin, and acne. Traditionally used on the Hawaiian Islands for sunburns, it also reduces the appearance of wrinkles, age spots, and sun damaged skin. Kukui Nut Oil does not clog pores. Kukui Nut Oil increases hair strength, reducing breakage, moisturizing, preventing dandruff, and adding luster and shine to hair.
Hemp Seed Oil: Hemp Seed Oil, having the botanical name Cannabis sativa, is cold-pressed extracted and filtered, resulting in characteristic green oil with an earthy aroma and flavor profile. Hemp oil, especially hemp seed oil, is rich in unsaturated fats such as linoleic acid, γ-linolenic acid, and α-linolenic acid. These three fatty acids may help improve skin structure by helping the skin retain moisture. They also have a beneficial effect on dry, rough skin and can influence the fluidity of cell membranes and transport of electrolytes.
One of the main benefits of hemp seed oil is its ability to soothe and heal tired, stressed-out skin. Hemp seed oil decreases inflammation and irritation and provides relief for discomfort related to certain skin conditions. It is often recommended by dermatologists as an alternative solution for acne, psoriasis, eczema, and atopic dermatitis as it promotes the growth of new healthy skin cells.
Youthful skin, delivered. Hemp seed oil is high in antioxidants – such as vitamin A, C, E, and F and fatty acids – that strengthen the outer layer of the skin so it can preserve water. This keeps skin looking and feeling firmer and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
One of the best moisturizers I have ever used, I made, using Kukui nut and hemp seed oil. Amazing stuff!
Castor Oil: India is actually known as the world leader in castor oil production. The United States and China are the primary importers. The castor oil plant is primarily grown in Africa, South America, and India.
Castor oil is produced by cold-pressing castor seeds and then applying heat. It’s not considered an edible oil, and makes up only a fraction of the world’s vegetable oil production.
Historically, castor oil has been used as an effective laxative. It’s also been used to induce labor. But today, castor oil is widely used as an ingredient in cosmetics. According to a safety review for castor oil, castor oil was used in over 900 cosmetic products in 2002.
Castor oil contains antioxidants that fight free radicals in your body. Free radicals are responsible for accelerating the aging process, making wrinkles appear sooner.
Castor oil has antibacterial properties. Bacteria on your face can clog pores and lead to acne. It has anti-inflammatory properties, which can help reduce swelling and puffiness. It could reduce the size of inflamed pimples or eye bags as well. It is also great for moisturizing skin and lips.
All the products I source, as stated, are organic or wild crafted. These are the oils I use and the benefits they bring.
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